Thinking about traveling in Grozny
During the first week in the North Caucasus region of Russia, I was traveling more slowly and cautiously than usual – I could not really get used to driving with confusing GPS signals (my location was flying around every second), and having to pay only in cash added some logistical challenges, especially when booking online. But people do adapt to new situations, and as I was getting used to the new routines, I could allow the usual traveler’s energy to slowly manifest again and allow me to better recognize the locals’ warmth and unprejudiced intentions.
During the initial planning stage of the trip months ago, I was almost certain that I was going to skip Grozny, the capital of the Chechen Republic, based on the thoughts of some locals I know (not from Chechen), and my own knowledge about its complicated modern history. Even the name sounded like a warning – meaning ‘fearsome’ in Russian.
But as I kept hearing good things about visiting Grozny in the preceding towns, I began to guess that the negative reputation had been exaggerated or outdated – a phenomenon found in many regions of the world. So I decided to see it for myself.
At first glance, the modern and well-organized city landscape pleasantly surprised me – making a clear contrast from some nearby republics I had visited. And the ongoing busy construction in the background convinced me that more is yet to come, and people are working towards some shared goals.
I was even lucky with my host there – a guy from the region who had studied in the US and Moscow. Hearing his multi-layered view on the region’s past and the present was a uniquely nuanced perspective that I could not find otherwise, and it helped me harmonize my text-based knowledge and the real impressions I got in the city. He believes in the continued growth of the city, so he plans to expand his local business. That hopeful projection seemed good to me and I thought that the hope of the locals is indeed the key element that can turn the forecast into a reality.
Being in a region with few travelers, connecting with a fellow one was a joy by his mere companionship. Hailing from Catalonia, David taught me how hitchhiking can be a reliable way of traveling even with total language barriers. His passion for wild animal welfare was already interesting by its subject matter, but what stood out more to me was his attitude toward life – maintaining honest conversations with oneself, and taking the courage to align the major life decisions according to the conclusions. Discussing major arguments around animal welfare in a late-night café in Grozny will be a scene I will remember for a long time.
As my last stop in the region, I followed David to have a glimpse of how birdwatching is done, another major passion of his. The site turned out to be a popular fishing site among the locals, and we had a friendly encounter with a dad and his son. Despite the brevity of the chat, I was genuinely touched later when I found the kind gesture left in the form of a ‘goody basket’ on the hood of my car. I have to say I do not eat chocolate bars, but his intention alone was enough to melt me right there for several minutes.
Do I recommend Grozny now? Perhaps, but the question seems less relevant now. The part I appreciated most out of this experience was its unscripted nature and the act of embracing it – and I remembered that it is one core element for the kind of travels I want to continue having.
