A (de)tour to Viseu

When I decided to spend 9 days in Portugal for my vacation- perhaps a generous amount of time for a vacation traveler within the EU – I was conscious that I wanted to glimpse the “deeper” Portugal, where tourists do not frequent. That motivation became even stronger during my three-day stay in Lisbon, where I found myself almost exclusively surrounded by tourists in the old town. It was a strange experience, rarely spotting any locals. It felt like a real-life theme park.

Having learned that most popular spots & Portuguese population are concentrated along the western coastline, I wanted to drive eastward, exploring the local lifestyle in the mountainous regions. I chose Viseu, a mid-sized city some 130 km southeast of Porto. Despite the lack of tourism, the city seemed to hold historical and cultural importance in the country.

But my two-day stay in the city was, at least on the surface, far from spectacular. I’m not sure if that was typical for the area during that season, but it drizzled the whole time. After strolling around the small city center for about twenty minutes, there wasn’t much else to do. I also felt I visually stood out as a traveler more noticeably, because there weren’t many others around.

But in some ways, I knew that I had been looking for this. I could still “feel at home as a traveler”. This was the feeling that I experienced daily when I travelled full-time 2017-2020. Experiencing a language barrier, having to explain myself if a local misunderstood me, or receiving extra attention in restaurants and grocery shops due to my unfamiliarity with the customs – these could trigger nervous feelings in me, but at the same time they help me feel like a natural human again, and allowed me to observe my reactions more innocently. I realize that, at least structurally, I want to live my life in the same way: as a traveler in my own home – not taking things for granted and not identifying myself with the current titles or how I am classified by the society. I think this is one way I am protecting what I consider more important in life.

@Viseu, Portugal, 17 April 2025